Sample Chapter

Sunglow Campground and Red Canyon

Please note:  This is still an unedited and unrefined version.  Content is generally accurate but the maps and photos will be edited and refined.

A small and beautiful canyon tucked in behind the town of Bicknell with a handful of short but decent routes.  Four of the routes are in close proximity to each other and a couple can be set as top ropes without being led.  There is a seasonal campground with flush toilets, running water, fire pits and a fee, as well as birds of prey and a herd of bighorn sheep.  The climbs predominantly face west and average a 20 minute to half hour approach time.

Access:  From Bicknell, drive east on UT-24 for about ¼ of a mile and turn left/north on the access road to Sunglow Campground (National Forest campground sign).  Follow this road for one mile to its end and park.

Maps:  USGS 7.5 minute Bicknell Quadrangle

The Routes:

1.  Unnamed          5.10+         80-100‘          TR
F.A.:  Jamie Kaczmarek and Jared Spaulding        May 4, 2002
Access:  For routes 1 and 2 access as follows: from the parking area, hike north through the group site and follow wash/creek up canyon, sometimes on canyon bottom, other times avoiding pour-overs by hiking up and to the east.  Hike almost to the end of the canyon where there is a large snag on the east/right side of the wash.  From this point, look east/left and spy large doug fir with splitter crack behind it.  Hike up to tree and base of route.
Description:  Face moves to a zigzagging crack. There are two variations at the top. The first ascent party did this route as a top rope.  It is possible to scramble to the top and set up an anchor.  The bottom of the route is lichen covered.  There are no rappel or anchor bolts on this route.
Paraphernalia:  Gear to set up an anchor or gear to lead, probably finger size stuff.

2.  Basking in the Afterglow          5.9+        100’
F.A.:  John Rogers & Dave Moore           1999
Access:  From the snag mentioned above, look up to the east and spy a splitter crack with a three bolt anchor at the top.  Scramble up scree, sage, and rubber rabbit brush.  Traverse in from right on small ledge.
Description:  A thin hands to off-width crack that climbs a less than vertical splitter to a three bolt anchor
Paraphernalia:  #.5, #.75, #1, (2)#2, #3, & (2)#4 Camalots

This second collection of routes is just above and east of the parking lot and garbage disposal point.  With good vision, three of the four anchors are visible from the picnic table at site #8, above the second small cliff band which lies above the garbage disposal point sign (see photo).

Access:  To access these routes, hike through the group site at the end of the parking lot and follow the fence until it ends.  At this point head up the hill to east, angling left to and through a break in a small dirty cliff band.  Scramble up and left to route three and up and slightly right to routes four through seven.  This should be about 15-20 minutes.

3.  Dead Pinyon Route        5.10        75-80’
F.A.:  Dave Martin        late 90s
Access:  See above
Description:  Climb aesthetic off-width corner on beautiful lichen covered rock, narrowing to thin hands and a dead pinyon.  Stem up awkward left trending hand crack to two bolt anchor.
Paraphernalia:  #.75, #1, (3)#2, #3, #4, & #5 Camalots.
Note:  This is not the original name of the route but there were a lot of “unknown” routes; I took the liberty of giving it a name.

These next three routes are south from route #3, down and around the toe of a small buttress about 100 plus yards right.

4.  Unknown        5.8        50’
F.A.:  Dave Martin         late 90s
Access:  Climb rock ramps to base of short splitter crack
Description:  A straight in wide hand to fist crack, possibly larger up low angle rock to two bolt anchor.  The anchor is visible from below.
Paraphernalia: #2 – #4 Camalots

5.  Arm and Hammer    5.10        110’
F.A.:  Jared Spaulding         May 22, 2011         TR
Access:  This route is 10 feet left of route #6.
Description:  Climb off-width and squeeze chimney up occasionally varnished and occasionally soft rock to top of cliff.  Anchor from tree at top.  One bolt at top.
Paraphernalia:  If leading, wide crack gear #4 – #6 Camalots, Big Bros.  If top roping, bring a 40’ section of static rope to equalize tree and bolt.
Note:  The F.A. of this route was done as a top rope solo from a single bolt and a stout pinyon pine at the top.  The top is accessible by walking up to the left, then from the base of route #4 go back right and up a few third class moves.

6.  Unknown        5.9+        80+’
F.A.:  Dave Martin        late 90s
Access:  Ten feet right of previous route
Description:  Climb an ugly flake to splitter hands through a small bulge, into a flare and follow to two bolt anchor.
Paraphernalia:  Hand sized gear?
Note:  If you didn’t want to lead this climb, it would be possible to rappel to the anchors on this climb from a tree at the top of the cliff.

7.  Unknown        5.10        40’
F.A.:  Dave Martin        late 90s
Access:  Fifteen feet right of previous route.
Description:  Wide finger/thin hand splitter past flake to two bolt anchor.  If you eliminate the use of the flake, it is around 5.11.
Paraphernalia: #.5 – #2 Camalots?

8.  Sunglow Roof Crack    5.10        100’
F.A.:  Jared Spaulding        May 24, 2011        TR
Access:  The base of this route is accessed by going up and right from the base of route #4 and a little above and left of the tops of route numbers five and six.  From the base of #4 go right, past a tree and up a third class step in a small chimney.  Climb another third class step a little further on, then work up and back left to the base.
Description:  Climb hands, fists, tight hands into a highly varnished corner.  Climb up to and out an off-width roof then up wide crack to three bolt anchor on the left.
Paraphernalia:  #.75 – #5 Camalots, maybe a #6 Camalot.
Note:  The F.A. of this route was done as a top rope solo.  This can be top roped by walking up and left then back right to top of climb.  A gear anchor and long tether would be needed to reach the bolts.

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